The first thing that struck us as we disembarked our flight at Innsbruck Airport — other than the fresh, bracing air—was the breathtaking mountain scenery encircling us. Towering, snow-dusted peaks are all around, glowing in the morning sunlight – a natural amphitheatre promising several days of history, fun and adventure.
The second thing that stood out was the remarkable ease of travelling from the airport to the heart of Innsbruck. Few international airports in Europe allow you to be dining in a restaurant in the city centre within an hour of landing, but in Innsbruck it’s possible to achieve this effortlessly. Once through passport control and the baggage claim area, the F bus immediately outside the airport doors swiftly connects you to Innsbruck Hauptbahnhof (the main train station from which you can easily explore the Old Town on foot) in just 15–20 minutes.
And so, we did just that, stopping at Weisses Rössl for a wonderful Tyrolean lunch. But for first-time visitors to the city, I’d strongly recommend taking a private guided tour. It’s a great way to immerse yourself in Innsbruck’s rich history, culture and hidden gems that might otherwise go unnoticed. Our certified Austria guide, Monika, greeted us with a warm smile and the promise of unique insights — stories and details that only someone with centuries of family roots in the city could share.
We set off to explore the city’s layers of history, noting that the streets are dotted with intricately wrought-iron signs. These ornate markers, each a miniature work of art, once served as advertisements for the city’s merchants. From gilded boots to gleaming scales, these signs were not merely decorative but also practical, helping visitors and locals to navigate Innsbruck’s winding streets before literacy was widespread.
We are led to the nearest bridge where we pause to take in a view that perfectly encapsulates Innsbruck: the River Inn, flanked by the pastel façades of Mariahilfstrasse. Each building was painted a different colour—a tradition that began as a way to identify homes and shops but has also become a symbol of the city’s vibrant personality.
Here, Monika drew our attention to the river’s formidable presence. In Spring, the snowmelt floods its banks, often threatening to breach the bridges that connect the city. It’s a reminder of how closely life here is intertwined with nature and the surrounding landscape.
The marketplace near the bridge is alive with energy each morning – it’s a thriving hub of farmers and vendors selling everything from ripe produce to Alpine cheeses, something which the locals take an immense pride in.
Innsbruck’s history unfolded as we entered the Old Town. Monika led us to the Golden Roof, the world-famous symbol of the city with its 2,657 fire-gilded tiles. Built by Emperor Maximilian I, the roof was a symbol of his power and influence when Innsbruck was the capital of Europe.
Maximilian’s legacy looms large here and there’s a plaque that lists notable visitors to the city, including the likes of Napoleon Bonaparte and Empress Maria Theresa,he mother of Marie Antoinette.
Through strategic marriages, Maximilian expanded his empire across the continent, earning the title of Europe’s last knight. But even an emperor’s resources are finite. When his ambitious projects drained his treasury, he left Innsbruck for Vienna, where he died. He’s not buried in the city he so adored, but statues of significant historical figures, particularly from the Habsburg dynasty – which had been built to surround the tomb of Emperor Maximilian I – remain in the Hofkirche.
These statues are a marvel of Renaissance craftsmanship, each figure etched with exquisite detail. Monika pointed out one particularly fascinating statue, which cleverly depicts the artist’s self-portrait in the elbow. Preserved in Innsbruck, these statues survived the bombing of Vienna during World War II, and a poignant reminder of the city’s role as a guardian of history.
Nearby, Dom St. Jakob’s painted ceiling is an exquisite work of art. What appears to be a grand dome is, in fact, a flat ceiling – a masterpiece of illusion, painted to create depth where none exists.
Innsbruck’s spirit of resilience came alive again as Monika recounted the fire that once ravaged the city. From its ashes rose the domed walkways that now characterise the Old Town, offering shelter from weather and a demonstration of the city’s ability to adapt and endure. This theme of survival is mirrored in its people – as Monika noted, those born in Innsbruck often stay or, if they leave, feel an irresistible pull to return. There’s something magnetic about life here, a harmony that blends tradition with progress.
That progress is evident in the youthful energy coursing through the city, thanks to its thriving university, whilst Innsbruck’s proximity to Italy and Germany adds to its vibrancy; introducing new cultures and cuisines. Yet Innsbruck itself feels complete, its charm rooted in its people and its connection to the land.
Our tour ends at Adlers Hotel, a modern counterpoint to the city’s historic heart. It has been a fascinating insight into Innsbruck and a wonderful way to begin our trip. As we say farewell, we now understand what Monika means about the pull of the place. – we’ve only been there a few hours but are already longing for more.
Disclosure: Our trip was sponsored by Innsbruck Tourism.
Paul Johnson
Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for more than 30 years. He is Winner of the Innovations in Travel ‘Best Travel Influencer’ Award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog has also been voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best for luxury” by The Telegraph.
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